The Best Fish and Chips Place in Town
By Jim
Anderson and Patricia Devine
TO CELEBRATE MIDWINTER
in Seattle, we head over to Alki Beach to enjoy
fish and chips, Greek style, at Sunfish --
indisputably the best around. On a pretty summer
day, Alki's overpopulation problems make the
area a stressful place to eat, especially if you
want to eat the food the same day that you order
it. Alki in the winter is another story, with
relatively easy parking, carefree pedestrian
ingress and egress, and cool, crisp nautical
breezes coaxing you gently, gently into this
unpretentious yet snappy establishment.
What makes these fish fillets, oysters,
squid, and shrimp so special is the pleasingly
non-greasy, light, and crispy breading (a Greek
secret?). These tender ocean gems only visit the
deep fat fryer; they don't live there. The
lightness creates a celebratory spirit, making
the meal feel special and even healthy.
Further Greek influences include the Greek
Salad ($4.85); although slightly over-lettuced
with iceberg, romaine, and red cabbage, this
naturally crisp opener is tightly packed with
crunchy cucumbers, long and attractive strands
of green pepper, and mountains of feta. A
pungent olive oil and vinegar dressing features
a heavy oregano bouquet, while minuscule bits of
chopped olive lend a country feel to the salad.
Tart kalamatas stud the mélange, adding both
bite and flair to a top-notch version of this
Greek classic. Sunfish Clam Chowder ($1.75 for
the small size) is hot, creamy, and gets the
tummy-warming job done with little ado, letting
the potatoes and celery speak for themselves.
The hard-charging Sunfish Special ($7.95) is
a knockout fish kabob featuring grilled chunks
of halibut and prawns interspersed with seared
green pepper and onion. Halibut has always been
a Sunfish strong point, and these grilled
medallions of the buttery-tasting fish show why.
The presence of vegetables in a fish and chips
joint must be illegal, yet Sunfish blatantly and
expertly showcases them center-stage. This is
truly a kabob worthy of praise. The accompanying
fries are real potatoes, with chewy innards and
crispy skins intact. Like the halibut, these
little fellas haven't been near a freezer. This
is a premier menu selection for those eschewing
deep-fried action, and there is no law saying
you have to eat the freshly made,
delicious French fries. But if you decide not
to, could you put them in an envelope and mail
them to us?
Featured on the Combination Plate are three
oysters, two prawns, one piece of fish, and
fries. Fish choices include halibut or salmon
($6.75), or cod ($6.25). The oysters are exactly
as they should be: tiny, lightly breaded, and
fried to a moist and golden excellence. Salmon
is easily overcooked, but this one knew just
when to come out of the fryer, leaving it moist
and flavorful.
Fried calamari appears to be made from the
giant squid in 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.
Its arrival at the next table can't go
unnoticed, and our heads quickly snap in the
direction of our neighbor's huge pile of
tentacles and tubules. In unison, we sigh, "I
knew we should have ordered those!" Next time.
Light and smoke-free, this restaurant
provides a cheery atmosphere for locals
alternately discussing snowboarding attire
("Dude, I got some killer boarding pants!") and
the Admiral Pub ("I ain't goin' there on a
Friday; it's too crowded"), as well as young
West Seattle sophisticates and visitors from
across the bridge. Real plants and gargantuan
mounted fish on boards complete a decor that
reflects the personality of this unusual place.
While beer would be a welcome menu addition
(Is there anything finer than frosty, cold,
carbonated beer washing down a sizzling piece of
halibut?), the pleasant attitude of the staff
makes up for the lack of liquid spirits.
Although 9:00 p.m. is closing time, customers
who arrive at that time are treated warmly and
served promptly. Take your fish across the
street to enjoy the panoramic view once summer
arrives, but for now, enjoy the taste of summer
without the crowds.
Sunfish
2800 Alki Avenue SW, 938-4112. Tues-Sun 11
am-9 pm, closed Mon. No booze. $.
Price Scale (per entrée)
$ = $10 and under; $$ = $10-20;
$$$ = $20 and up
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